Friday, October 23, 2009
Marked 'Beekeeping Equipment' I took the package home and unpacked
1 x Nucleus Hive
4 x new frames
4 x foundations (the wax that goes in the frames for the bees to start working on)
1 x smoker - went for the good stainless steel one
and 1 x belt so now the hand-driven extractor we scored at the dump works properly!
Next steps - undercoat and paint the box - in a light colour to help keep the bees cool, put the box together using strong wood glue, galv or stainless steel nails, find the perfect spot for it in our garden and get some bees.
Monday, October 12, 2009
We called up to make sure it was still there and got them to put it on hold for us.
So - here's the bounty...
1 x hand driven two frame honey extractor (needs a good clean and a new drive belt)
2 x pairs of leather gloves (need new elastic in the sleeves)
1 x heavy duty hive tool
1 x normal hive tool
3 x veils to fit over hats
1 x capping bag to fit the extractor
1 x bee brush
All that for only $50!
To buy all this new, it would be over $800.
What a bargain, we're very happy with ourselves indeed.
And, we visited the local DPI beekeeping section and got hold of this book.
Next steps, a nucleus hive, a full beekeepers suit and a smoker.
And some bees of course!
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
This post I’ll cover;
Hands on practice
Where to find resources, information and materials
Max took us through how hives are constructed, set up and what the best materials are. You can get budget boxes, but it seems that good quality material like Hoop Pine is the way to go.
Hives consists of a base, two supers (the bottom one is a brood box, the top one the honey box) and a lid. You can have two honey boxes on top of the brood box, but it’s getting high and heavy to lift – pays to keep it manageable, again you don’t want to be dropping the super or the frames – bees really don’t like being dropped - they get, you guessed it, angry!
New hives can be bought as a flat pack and put together at home and painted up. Max recommends an undercoat and then four top coats of a good quality outdoor paint. We plan to use an eco-friendly, low fume exterior grade paint for ours.
Hives are often painted white, but any colour that will reflect heat and keep the hive cool in summer is fine, I'm thinking a splash of lemon and lilac.
It’s best to use galvanized or stainless steel nails for construction too – again to avoid cheap nails rusting out and the hive falling apart. Also a good idea to use a very strong wood glue too.
The lid also must have ventilation holes for the bees to breathe and to prevent condensation.
You can also add a layer of insulation to the lid too, and they are sometimes made out of galv, then painted so you can write on them to keep a record of what that hive is producing. Keeping records is an important part of beekeeping too.
Between the brood and honey supers you’ll need an excluder (see BELOW). This keeps the Queen and the drones in the brood box, only the worker bees make it up to the honey super and the do all the honey collection.
Everything needs to be well built and strong – honey is heavy, honey. The base could even be made out of Cyprus Pine to prevent termite problems too.
It pays to number and date the frames, that way you know how they are circulating through the hives.
An average super box holds 10 frames, but some bee keepers like to have eight or nine in there instead.
Frames need to be cleaned and repaired when they have had the honey extracted from them. This is done in a honey house – a place that keeps the bees out as robber bees will come looking for the honey if you take it away from the hives.
The frames are uncapped using a hot knife. Either an electric one or a normal knife placed in hot water to heat up. With raw honey, this is the only time heat is applied.
I’m thinking of getting together with some other locals who want to keep bees and starting a co-operative to buy the machinery, so we can share it rather than all buying our own.
BELOW - hot knifes, drainage and other tools for uncapping the honey
Once the wax caps are taken off the cells, the honey flows freely and Max then places the frames in the centrifuge to extract as much as possible from them. The honey drains out a tap at the bottom of the electric machine (SEE BELOW) and runs through three strainers – just to remove the bee’s knees – before it is bottled in sterilised jars ready for market.
You can get a hand operated extractor for about $200.
HANDS ON PRACTICE
We then put on our protective suits, hoods and gloves and headed out for some hands on practice.
The Queensland Department of Primary Industries and Fisheries has a lot of information about beekeeping and is a good place to start.
A good info sheet is here http://new.dpi.vic.gov.au/notes/agg/ag1146-hobby-beekeeping
Check with your local equivalent agency.
A recommended supplier of beekeeping equipment is John L Guilfoyle Pty Ltd. Unfortunately their website isn’t working at the moment, but their phone numbers are:
Brisbane – (07) 3279 9750
South Australia – (08) 8344 8307
NSW – (02) 9623 5585
Friday, September 25, 2009
- before you begin
- tools and equipment
Well, it would pay to do some type of course if you can. Get hands on with bees and see if it's for you before you start investing in equipment or taking on an unkempt hive - which is a big job - it might seem like a bargain, but taking on someone else's problem hive is not a good way to start out.
Join a beekeeping club or group.
Check with the Department of Primary Industries or equivalent in your area. They often have courses, information, websites you can check out. They can also advise you on how many hives you can have.
Here bee keepers need to be registered it only costs about $15 a year, but you are kept up to date with disease outbreaks and information.
Buy a good book. DPI also have a range of books - (Warhurst and Goebel are recommended).
Visit a beekeeping supply shop/website. John L Guilfoyle Pty Ltd are a key Australian beekeeping supply place. They have outlets in Qld, SA and NSW. Their phone number is 07 3279 9750 for Queensland.
Hives need to be checked regularly, so have them somewhere close to your home, yet set away from traffic areas (cars, people, children, pets, horses, ducks). They can cohabitate with chooks which may also help keep pest problems low.
Aspect - northerly aspect here in the southern hemisphere. Good to get early morning sun (so open to the east) so the bees start work early.
Bear in mind whether you'll need to go in to mow in front of the hives too. This will really anger the bees, so again having chooks in the system will keep grass and weeds to a minimum.
Shelter - bees need morning sun, but protection from western and full summer sun. Plant out the area with things that will provide summer shade, but let the winter warmth in. This is where good permaculture design principles can come in. A shady spot will also make it more pleasant for you too as you work with the bees. They don't like human sweat, so keep it to a minimum in a shady spot.
Cane toads - love to eat bees, so make sure the hives are up high enough to stop them eating all your stock.
Ducks will eat bees whole, but will probably die from a sting to the throat - so again, chooks are best.
Air flow - hives need good ventilation - particularly here in the subtropics, they don't like humidity, so make sure they are in a well ventilated, airy spot. But they still need to be protected from strong westerly and southerly winds.
Honey house - also plan for where you will transport the frames to uncap them and to harvest the honey. You need a closed in honey house nearby to harvest all the honey.
Spacing - place hives 1 metre apart. Placing a 1.8 metre high fence (can be chain mesh) will direct the bees up and over the fence, making it easier for humans to walk past without being stung. Give the bees some space to between the front of their hives and the fence - say 6 metres if you have it. A fence is also good to keep chooks in if you are integrating the two animal systems together - Max had his chook house at the back of the hives, so he could get in there, tend to the chooks and not disturb his bees.
Water - Max observes that his bees prefer to drink from the mud around the dam, rather than any water he leaves out for them nearer the hives.
Food and forrage plants - more about these in a later posting, but bear in mind how you are going to feed your bees year round.
TOOLS & EQUIPMENT
Bee keeping requires a fair amount of equipment and tools to get started. I'll be honest, it's not cheap, but it is a profitable hobby - people pay good money for local honey and beeswax.
Max took us through the equipment and great set up he has at his place.
Here (BELOW) he is showing us a Nucleus hive - used to start off a new colony, or to capture a swarm. This is what we are getting to kick start our own colony of bees. After a year, we'll move them up into a full sized hive (more on them later). A nucleus hive will cost about $50, and then you need to buy the frames (5), foundations (the beeswax to get the frames started) and the Queen. You can buy Queens bred specifically for their temperament, or quiet disposition. This is waht we're going for, making them easier to handle for beginners like me.
BELOW - once the honey laden frames are removed from the hives, they need to be uncapped, that is the beeswax the bees have placed over the top of each cell needs to be removed to allow the honey to flow. A hot knife is used to do this - either electric or a large knife dipped in really hot water. With raw honey, this is the only time heat is applied to the product.
Bees don't like wool, dark clothes (they'll think your a grizzly bear coming to steal their honey), strong perfumes or odours or sweat. Also note the gloves. These are long sleeved gloves with calf hide which makes them soft and pliable so you can really feel the frames and there is little chance of dropping the frame and really annoying the bees.
Monday, September 14, 2009
The full day course covered so much information I've decided to break it up into sections to post - tools, hives, bees, etc.
But here are a few photos of the day to whet your appetite.
Bee hives behind a fence - keeps people from walking in front of the hives (bees don't like that) and also allows chooks to be released to free range in the area which keeps weeds under control (so you don't need to mow in front of the hives) and also helps keep the Hive Beetle under control.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
I'll be taking a lot of photos and notes and will post them here.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
He also told me about the 'Bee Book' - a book about keeping bees relevant to the subtropics and explained that when we have hives and they are registered with DPI, we'll be notified about upcoming workshops.
He put me onto Queen Bee breeders and a person in Gympie who does local shows with bee displays.
The Beginners' Guide to backyard beekeeping workshop I've organised for September is booked out - just through word of mouth so hopefully we'll have more workshops in the near future.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Firstly, from Introduction to Permaculture. The idea is for any animal introduced in the system to be able to self-forage. That way you don’t need to expel energy or money feeding them. They move around and feed themselves. A diverse diet and exercise moving around finding food leads to animals that are healthier and more robust than those kept contained and fed concentrated feeds.
Permaculture teaches us to firstly look at that particular animals needs, then it’s characteristics to see how they fit – what they need from the system, what they bring too the system and what products we can yield from them.
For example, chickens scratch up mulch, geese graze on grass… you get the picture.
So what about bees?
The book Permaculture Plants recommends a permaculture system having both nectar and pollen producing plants for bees. In permaculture we look at how many uses we can get out of one plants so being a provider of food for bees is an important use we can seek out when selecting plants.
Planting out a year round diet is also important – having something available all year round for your bees to forage.
Bee forages to consider include natives such as grevilleas and acacias, pasture crops such as Lucerne and clover, orchard trees such as citrus and herbs including lavender, borage, comfrey and rosemary.
Other plants include; tagasaste (for down south – not suitable for the subtropics), fennel, raspberry, sage, thyme, carob, cowpea, and various gums.
Rosemary Morrow’s book the Earth User’s guide to permaculture recommends the following;
Bees need shelter (hives located in protected areas, safe from flooding and strong winds),
Food, water, warmth (place hives in a maximum warm area – will need to bear in mind the harsh strong sun we have here in summer), and people to be calm around them!
They yield honey, beeswax, pollen, propolis, pollination (leading to higher yields) and broods.
Placing the hive 50-100m away from the main forage area also allows nectar to dry off on the way back to the hive and prevent it turning into alcohol.
Hives also need to be about one metre off the ground to prevent predators getting in and in an area away from where people might walk into the flight path of the bees, this makes them cranky and they sting you.
Permaculture – A designers’ manual recommends clumps of forage, rather than sparsely planted foragings. It also says that crops within a mile of hives will outyield crops in bee-deficient areas by a factor of three to 10 times.
Planning a calendar of year round food is the go, so I’ll take a look at what we have and start mapping out our bee menu plan.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
You're invited to join me as I learn how to keep bees at home - a challenge for me, I love bees and the work they do, but I'll admit they scare me a little.
I'm worried about being stung, but I guess it's going to happen if I'm going to persist in my dream of having our own busy bees pollinating our vegie garden and harvesting bucket loads of honey from our own hives.
Wish me luck,